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It’s hard to keep up with all that’s happening, though the truth is we spend a lot of time trying to recover in between our trips out and about. One thing we are very good at is taking advice on what to see, where to go, and especially where to eat. But we too have a few things to share with our French friends which are new to them that we’ve discovered. It’s very nice to have that feeling because that’s when we understand that we are no longer tourists in the place we have grown to enjoy so.

A friend suggested we go to see the Anna-Eva Bergman exhibit at the Musée d’Art Moderne. It is one of the City of Paris’ 14 municipal-owned museums and thus free to the public (though there is a charge to see the special exhibits). All of these museums are worth seeing which includes the Petit Palais and the Carnavalet in the Maris dedicated to the history of the city. The Musée d’Art Moderne was relegated to second place when a new museum of modern art was built and to which its great collections were transferred. It is the Pompidou in the Maris. The older museum is still well worth the visit. We often visit just to see the gigantic mural by Dufy called the History of Electricity, and Matisse’s preliminary studies for the work Dancers that were for the Barnes collection in Philadelphia. We didn’t get to see either of these today but headed right to the special exhibit (after paying our 15 euros each)

We understand this isn’t for everyone, but we found Bergman’s work both engaging and stunning. We had never heard of her before, and so, if our friend had not made the recommendation we probably wouldn’t have gone. You can look her up for more details about her life and work if you are interested — but for now I’ll simply say she started out in Norway, ended up in Germany (as she married a German) and moved to France during WW II. (She wrote scathing articles with illustrations against the Nazis. Not sure how she didn’t end up in prison.) As an artist she started as a realiste, but quickly moved to expressionism and then to her own style using metal leaf foils of all kinds, including gold and silver. She created a process which used Armenian bole (which is a colored clay preparation) in the first steps of working with the foil leaves. The These works are dramatic in person — you’ll have to use your imagination in order to see what we saw. (the first three photos are not the works in foil)

These works below are stunning. I have to admit much is lost in translation.(Sorry!) The longer you look at each the more you see. Each one is massive which adds to the effectiveness no doubt.

There are layers upon layers of colored foils in blocks and in strings. This work is called Mountains. We loved it and sat looking at it for a while (giving us a chance to rest!). What was really nice was there were not too many people at the exhibition unlike the more popular ones where you cannot get near the works of art because of the crowds.

After the exhibit we looked forward to lunch at the cafeteria-style restaurant in the museum. But, to our dismay it is now a fancy restaurant with service inside and outside. We took a table outside but were not comfortable so we left. We went next door – literally – to a new place as well – called Bambini. The two restaurants are side by side. The day was hot and as peak lunch hour was approaching both restaurants started to fill up.

This is a view of the museum from Bambin’s — the first restaurant is on the other side of the greenery.

Squid salad to start followed pasta. with thinly sliced truffles. We shared both dishes. They were delicious.

When we got home this snazzy Jaquar 3.8 was parked in front of our apartment! See you in a few days — we are going for a ride — (Just kidding!)

It is definitely spring in Paris with sunny days, cool breezes and comfortable nights. The good news is that we’ve put our umbrella away and are enjoying the outdoors. Lots has happened in these past few days — so much so that it will probably take me two blogs to get it all in. I’ll start with today and work backwards. We’ve been having trouble opening our apartment door such that I was sure one of these days we wouldn’t be able to open the door and would be locked out. George oiled the lock but it didn’t seem to make much difference. This is where friends come in. We mentioned it to friends at lunch two days ago and they assured us that it was no problem. On the spot they called a locksmith they know and confirmed that he would visit us early first thing this morning. And he did – and he fixed the locking mechanism. There was nothing wrong with the lock itself. The mechanism, which consists of a long metal bar which moves up and down when the lock is turned was out of alignment. Just old age — we understand that! He got out a drill, we gave him a ladder, and in 20 minutes and 90 euros later, our door was fixed.

With the door fixed and that worry eliminated we headed out for the afternoon. For the first time since we arrived we took a bus. It isn’t that we didn’t want to take a bus — we couldn’t find the buses running from any of the stops we’ve been using for the last 15 years. We went to one of our usual stops , but no bus came and I couldn’t quite figure out that the notice posted meant. Well — when I finally did figure it out (thanks to Google translate) it wasn’t good news: This stop is not in service. It seems none of our stops will be operational until Oct. 2023 because of major road work being done along the routes. The buses have been rerouted. To where I have no idea. There is no information anywhere. We did find another bus not too far from us thanks to Bonjour RATP app (don’t leave home without it) Bus #86 — took us exactly to where we were headed –the Bon Marche and La Grand Épicerie (The Great Grocery!)

As a reward for his being willing to take the bus (which I love) as opposed to an Uber, I suggested we have lunch at one of our favorite restaurants — Le Récamier — which I have written about before. Soufflés are the specialty – but even more than that, all of the food is good and the service is impeccable and friendly.

Just above is the entrance to the restaurant. Since we didn’t have a reservation we were seated inside which was just as well as it was a bit breeze in what is essentially an ally way. We started with a green bean salad with very thin slices of raw white mushrooms, a main course of fish, and of course, souflé — mine with the dark chocolate and George had a grand marnier soufflé that was highly recommended by the waiter. We come here at least once every trip – so you’ve all read about this one before.

After a very big lunch we walked to La Grand Épicerie which is just a couple of streets away . We didn’t need much, but bought a few specialty cakes to have on hand when we have company next week. Photos are not allowed and so I can’t show you the inside — but it is truly spectacular. This no ordinary grocery store and not the place you go to buy soap powder! (Although they have it hidden somewhere in a corner). It must be on your To Do list if and when you visit Paris and if you haven’t been before.

Thursday night we had a super spectacular treat – went to the ballet at the Bastille. It was amazing. Friends had asked us months ago if we wanted to go – and we said yes without a second’s pause. They had purchased their tickets and so purchased two more for us, but told us we wouldn’t be sitting together. When we got there we were seated together, orchestra, row 9, center. How come? When our friend purchased our tickets he asked they call him if 4 seats together came up. a Week later the box office staff called — they had four tickets. Did we want them?

The Ballet Corps of the Paris Opera performed, two nights only, the work of choreographer Maurice Béjart who died in 2007. The performances were sold out. This is the inside of the Opera Bastille from our vantage point.

We saw three pieces by Béjart – two of them are on You Tube, and although they don’t have the impact of seeing them live, I’d recommend you watch them nonetheless. They were truly amazing works of art – both the mastery of choreography and of dance. The both leading male dancers were beyond belief. George said he had never seen anything like it – massive bodies dancing with such grace and beauty you just wanted to cry. The first ballet was The FireBird by Stravinsky (the first time I’ve seen a live performance of this famous work) and Bolero by Ravel. Hope the link works. If not, just Google it – Béjart L’oiseau de feu. Ravel comes right up next.

ENJOY !!

We flew Icelandic Air with a short layover in Reykjavik and then onto Paris. I have to say that the flight attendants and the passenger support people couldn’t have been nicer. Every step along the way they were looking out for our comfort, helping with carry-ons, etc., even before we had a chance to ask. It was also service with a smile. Took the angst out of flying. Also made getting around effortless.

Although Iceland is not part of the EU, it is part of the Schengen Agreement which means we pass through passport control in Iceland, avoiding the long lines at Charles De Gaulle airport. In addition, these flight come into the domestic terminal avoiding the madness at the international terminal. I don’t know if it would makes up for a 1 1/2 hour stopover in Iceland for everyone, addinging time onto the overall trip, but it makes sense for us.

Getting a cab at the airport is a civil and orderly process — no one need fear being cheated. As a way of combating UBER – the government (or someone) fixed taxi prices from the airport to Paris. One price for destinations on the right bank and one for the left bank. The left is further away so we pay a bit more. It was 62 euros – on the meter, fixed. We gave the driver a good tip – which he appreciated since most people barely tip taxi drivers. (Usually 3-5 euros is enough.) Our driver was so good — and it took a long time getting through traffic so we gave him 10 euros. His eyes popped!

It has been close to 6 months since we’ve been here — seems like more. We opened the door to our apartment and walked in with a sigh of relief, “We’re home!” I don’t know why, but this little place of ours feels like home. Maybe it is that we have our stuff all around here. Remember comedian George Carlin’s hilarious monologue about stuff? He captures the essence and the humor of it exactly. (It is on You Tube — take a listen and have a good chuckle). Or, maybe it is that our neighbors filled our refrigerator with food to get us through a couple of days, or that our housekeeper had been in and made the place shine. It said WELCOME! and felt so good.

We arrived on Thursday and slept until early afternoon on Friday. Wanting to get out and walk a bit we made our way down to a Lebanese grocery where we picked up some authentic Armenian lavash (paper thin sheets of bread) that we cannot get in the U.S., Feeling a bit hungry we sat down to a plate of appetizers all prepared right there. No — we did not eat any of the pastries. It would be too soon to give into that — too many croissants and French pastries are still ahead. Just opposite the restaurant you can see a garden and park on that busy corner. There is a statue of a lion growling in the middle of it. Next time I’ll walk over to see what it signifies, if anything.

I bit further down the street we passed a pharmacy that also sells herbs and alternative medicines. This was the window display. I have no idea what these herbs are. The ledger I assumed was from times passed.

We live close to UNESCO. Last night all museums were open until midnight — and were free. UNESCO had a light show as well – open and free without invitation (which you usually need to get in there). I was hoping we might get over to see it, but no way – we folded after dinner. Below is one small part of UNESCO – it takes up a huge city block.

The next day I was awake enough to get down to the market to do some shopping. As I’ve reported in the past, these street markets are mind-boggling in the variety of fresh produce, fish, meats, cheeses, and prepared foods available. Vendors from various regions come with the products they produce – cheeses, breads, wines, fruits to mention some of what they bring. Even on the Cape we don’t see the variety of fish displayed here. And how about the potatoes? How many different kinds there are – and each has its specific use depending on the dish being prepared. (That’s about all I know!)

Below is our bread man. He knows George and me well and never fails to give a warm welcome. Today he asked about George not seeing him around. I bought two baguettes and a lemon pound cake. Over the next three hours he will sell almost everything you see in the photo.

I started to get weary so didn’t do the usual tour of the entire market which would take at least 45 minutes. I did stop to take a photo of this processed meat counter. You’ll see the asparagus, too, once I get it home. White asparagus that looks like firecrackers — enormous — but tender and delicious.

More to follow in the next few days. But now to bed as it is 10 pm. I just finished Osman’s The Bullet That Missed, third in the Thursday Murder Club series. For pure fun and good entertainment I highly recommend the series. Happy Mother’s Day to all!!

Hard as it is to believe, but we’ve only a few days left and so this will be my last post. I’ve a few things to catch up on to tell you about, but first I have to tell you about today. As you might know, anyone entering the US must show both proof of vaccination and a negative Covid PCR test taken 3 days before departure. Online, I found several laboratories in our area which do the PCR test and made appointments at the closest one. Saturday 2:45. I was sure something would go wrong. Since this was all done in French – I wondered if I had the wrong day, time or even the location. How would they send the results? Would the airline accept it? Could there possibly be something missing that I’d forgotten about. This is probably the most anxiety provoking part of travel these days.

At 1:50 pm we headed out – giving us plenty of time to walk the half mile to the lab. We found it without a problem, went in and got on line to register. Within a few minutes I was up at the window speaking French with the receptionist. Suddenly I thought to ask, “Parlez-vous anglais?”. “Oui, madam,” came the reply. And in English she said, “But you are speaking French so well.”. No -no — English please so we get this all right. Her mother is Australian and thus she speaks English — without an Australian accent. We proceeded to complete the registration. Luckily, I had thought to bring our passports as ID which turned out to be critical. After a short wait, the laboratory tech called us and within minutes we were both tested — the nasal swab quite professionally carried out. All turned out OK. We’ll have the results in 24 hours — and we’re 88 euros out-of-pocket (just about $100. — not bad for two).

What do you do when you are happy and in Paris? Have something delicious to eat. I don’t have a photos of what we ate, but look at this. Sliced white bread in Paris. Never thought I’d see it!

Now for some catch-up… back to Reims. Andrew Carnegie, after WWII, along with several other barons of industry, put their efforts into rebuilding Reims which was nearly totally destroyed during the war. Most notable, is the beautiful library, built in Art Deco style. It is a gem – totally in-style down to the last detail. Here are a few photos, but none does it justice.

We stopped in to see the daily market in the center of town, also done in Art Deco style. The center clock is a winner – and definitely brings a smile to one’s face.

Art Deco architecture is everywhere to be seen. It is easy to walk right by it and not notice as so much of the city is built in that style. Below is a stunning warehouse entry way for one of the major champagne companies. Unfortunately, I didn’t note which one. Above the door are a series of mosaics which depict the various stages of producing champagne.

Below is the rare structure that survived the war. It is from the Middle ages. The story goes that a certain sect needed protection and so lived within the courtyard behind these gates — which formed a fortress. If you look right through, between the cars that are there today you can see the façade of the cathedral. The Christmas market booths are in front of it.

And so as not to leave you with a sad thought, here is one last image of some of the most delicious pastry we ever had the pleasure of indulging in…. Pastries by Mori Yoshida — Japanese/French pastry chef. His tiny store is just a few blocks from us. I discovered it because a friend brought us six chocolates from the shop. So, when it was our turn to take dessert to another friend we went to the small shop to see what it was all about. I included photos of the desserts in the shop on an earlier blog.

I walked in and started a conversation with the young sales woman. I said in English — ” I understand this is the only shop in all of Paris. ” She replied,” This is the only shop in all the world!!” I leave you with this image… imagine the flavors. Until the next time…. Au revoir Paris.

What a great weekend. Wish you could have all been with us. Our neighbors suggested we go to champagne country for the weekend and we agreed. The past weekend was a 4 day weekend for most since Armistice Day was on Thursday and thus Friday became a vacation day. We left town on Friday. Our neighbor had already warned us that the region might be very busy because she had a hard time finding accommodations at a top hotel. -On Friday we could not even find a good restaurant for dinner. (Doesn’t mean we starved!). In France, she says, never stay at any hotel less than a 5! We did stay at the Best Western Premier Hotel de la Paix in Reims which was really good. I’d recommend it without hesitation. (A huge buffet breakfast is included which is very nice.)

The forecast was for rain on Saturday and Sunday but we lucked out — just a few drizzles with mild temperatures. Perfect for walking. Despite a bum knee and using a walking stick I kept up with the group. George and I did more walking than we have since in Paris two years ago. Here’s the proof…..over 12,000 steps!

No wonder we were tired on Sunday!

As I’m sure you know, Champagne is the region of France where champagne is produced. No other bubbly can be called champagne iif produced from grapes grown outside this region. The vineyards are seemingly endless. And the little farm houses that dot the countryside make the scenes pastural although there isn’t a cow insight.

Our first stop was at a champagne tasting spot which served snacks that made up our lunch. All in all we had 8 champagnes to taste, but we didn’t all taste all of them. George and I ordered 3 of the blanc de blanc — which are the best. (I always thought blanc de blanc was a mediocre bubbly. But not so – when referring to French champagne, it mean the top of the line. Indeed, we could taste the difference. I was amazed.

We went into the Moet and Chandon reception area and bought some champagne. Yes — I bought a bottle of Dom Perignon for us all to enjoy later — and we did! After arriving back in Paris. But for now, we were headed to our hotel and the city of Reims. Reims is in the northeast corner of France, close to the German border and therefore a very important city in both world wars. In WW II it was almost completely destroyed and afterward much of it was rebuilt with the help of American barons – Carnegie and Rockefeller in the fore. The armistice was signed in a small school building close to the train station where Eisenhower had set up his headquarters after the Allies made their way over France. A short, but very moving video of the war and how it played out in Reims is shown at the museum. I highly recommend a visit here.

We all learned in school about the incredible Gothic cathedrals of France. This is one of the greatest where all of the kings of France were crowned. (Rheims = the English spelling, so don’t get confused). In person – it is truly dazzling. My photos don’t do it justice at all. Saturday night we had dinner at a restaurant, 3rd floor above ground, with the cathedral as our backdrop. The Rose Windows are breathtaking as are the 3 stainglasss windows by Marc Chagall. (Worth going online to read about the stain glass windows. Several are intact from the 13th century having survived both World Wars.

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We’ve been to a lot of cities but I must say there is no city as lovely as Paris on a fall day, sunny with cool breezes and golden leaves all around. I think one of the reasons it is so lovely here is that the streets in the center of the city are wide, with lots of open space. I’m sure there are many who would tell you that there are fewer parks now than before, but still, there are so many open spaces to enjoy compared to even a city like Boston. Now I might be getting into trouble here — so I’ll stop.

Right in the center of Paris are the Luxembourg Gardens (and yes — ok, NY has Central Park) — with paths for walking, playgraounds, tennis courts, bacci games going on, backgammon… etc. We stopped to take in the sun and watch Paris walk by. Oh and of course I should mention that the French Senate is here too in a magnificent imposing building.

Although we enjoy taking and looking at photographs, it really isn’t our thing. Two days later we went to the Musée D’Orsay and saw the Signac, his work and his collection. Neo- Impressionist in style the exhibitions was fantastic.

Hard to believe we’ve been here for 10 days already. So much has happened which I haven’t had the time or the energy to write about. But — before we go off to the Musée D’Orsay today I want to get a post off about the last couple of days.

First, the weather has been glorious. Cool, but sunny and just right for walking around Paris. We’ve finally given up using buses exclusively. UBER — here we come. Uber is working out great and I think getting George back onto buses will be impossible.

How do you make this? More to the question — how do you cut it? I think it is meant to be a wedding cake, but I’m not sure. If you see the name on it — Angelina — that is the name of the cafe/salon de thé at the Luxembourg museum that we went to yesterday. Photos to follow tomorrow.

It was the weekend and to my surprise every museum we wanted to go to was fully booked. Covid restrictions probably the reason, but the truth is there are so many people here it makes getting into restaurants and exhibitions difficult. One must plan ahead. Also — it was school vacation week and although many Parisians have left the city, many others seems to have arrived. This week, took is more time off with Nov. 11, Armistice Day is celebrated. This year it is a three-day weekend and so many have taken this whole week off, too, along with last week’s school vacation week.