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Our time in Paris is soon to end but we know we’ll be coming back — hopefully.  There is always so much to explore and enjoy whether the places we’ve been to and have enjoyed or new places that are yet to be explored.  The photos here uploaded out of order and so you see somethings first that should have come last — as with these swords.  These were at the end of our visit to the Marmottan (described below).  These magnificent swords are representative of those presented to famous artists by the Foundation of the Academy of Arts (Beaux Arts).  Each sword is crafter specially for the person being honored, thus the handle speaks to the individual’s specialty. I’m not going into details… I hope you can magnify the photo and see it is greater detail.  This little exhibit was worth the price of admission.  Each sword was a masterpiece in itself.

We start out to the museum:  It was a cool rainy day but we decided to go to the Musée Marmottan Monet in the 16th.  After quite a bit of figuring I found an all bus route from our house using the app Citymapper which I have now found to be the best route planner.  It is easy to figure out, gives lots of options and specifies the walking routes, and gives the times for the buses so one can plan departure and arrival times more accurately.  We took the #28 to the river and there walked across the street to the stop for the #63.  Another couple were waiting there too for the #92.  They said they had been waiting for 40 minutes and that the GPS wasn’t working.  Well — now — what to do?  It was raining and we didn’t much feel like walking to another stop or looking for another bus route.  Of course — there is always Uber, but we thought we’d wait.  The other couple left but we stayed.  Just as we were about to leave the #63 appeared — and exactly as Citymapper was giving the time: 12:38!

I hadn’t gotten tickets for the exhibition ahead of time because I thought it was Tuesday — and raining – and who would go out on a day like this all the way to the Marmottan for an exhibition that was not necessarily ‘extraordinary’… Wrong!  We got there to find a long line out the door of the museum and down the street.  (I was tempted, but didn’t take a photo).  We decided to wait.  Right!  It took about 20 minutes and we were inside.  I should note that when we came out the line was even longer, around the building and down the side street despite the rain.

I was right to think the show was not extraordinary, but it was of interest:  the Figurative Mondrian.  The paintings shown were mostly from Mondrian’s early period as I’ve shown below.  Some were stunning in their beauty but only a few, in my opinion.  Interestingly, Mondrian had the habit of painting flowers every morning even after he entered his abstract period.  It was an exercise for him, and a way to make money.  I’ve included one below.

Mondrian: a self-portrait

The abstract art we associate with Mondrian.  

A flower a day….. 

See the caption below…. 

See below

We like to try different versions of ‘mille feuille’ — literally a thousand leaves.  The American version of this is called a napoleon.  It has layers of a thin pastry with cream in between and on top. It is amazing as to how many versions of this there are.  

The day we went to the Musee Marmottan was raining Here is the view from where we were waiting for our bus — looking across the Seine, to the Grand Palais dome which is on the left in the background.  It was built for the World’s Fair at the turn of the century and now serves as an exhibition hall for extravaganzas and art shows.  

There is a custom now for a bride and groom (he was lurking in the shadows) to come to Paris to be photographed prior to their wedding.  Here is one… I can’t imagine dragging that beautiful train through the dirty street.  Maybe these are rented just for the day… You can see the photographer right behind her.  She was having a very good time.    

Although Halloween is not observed in any big way here the chocolatiers cannot resist having some fun.  

Lots has happened since I last wrote, including another late afternoon downpour which wasn’t so bad because we were prepared this time.  This post will be a little scattered as my photos uploaded in a strange order and it is too time consuming to try to rearrange them.  And since it doesn’t really matter I’m going to just go along with it as is.

My friend, Chef Sarah, recommended a couple of places she wouldn’t miss if she had only a few days in Paris.  Alain Ducasse’s chocolate shops – were among her recommendations — especially the one on rue de la Roquette which is where the chocolates are made.  We could peer through the windows to see the chocolate beans being roasted, and then melted and poured.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have my new iphone so the photos aren’t so good.   The shop is off the street in a courtyard.  The minute we stepped into the area the aroma of chocolate –pure chocolate– overtook us.  Wow– it was wonderful.  I was happy to see that their chocolate beans came from fair trade countries and not Africa where child-slaves harvest the beans.   The chocolates are displayed as if fine jewels.  In a way they are — check out the prices!

To get to the chocolate shop we had to take a train to Bastille, where the Opera Bastille is now, but was the site of the prison which was stormed on July 14, 1789 — the beginning of the French revolution.   In order to find rue de la Roquette was had to walk around this very large square (which is actually round), with lots of traffic.  (Sorry the photos are so poor).

We met a friend at La Coupole for lunch.  It was established in 1927, on Blvd. du Montparnasse was a meeting place for artists and writers in that era.  The walls are lined with photographs of the famous who dined there.  We have passed it many times but never dined there and so decided to try it.    We weren’t sorry!

Although a very large interior it didn’t feel impersonal.  The art deco design is from the 20s.

Many of the restaurants in this area of Montparnasse specialize in shellfish.  This large elegant display in on the right immediately upon entering the restaurant.  Not the FISH above.

Suddenly the lights went down and the waiters came out with this cake (or facsimile) with sparklers on top signing Happy Birthday (In French of course) for the young woman at a table closeby.

My first course was mushrooms in a puff pastry.  It was delicious.  We had a fillet of white fish with leeks as a main dish, followed by chocolate covered profiteroles for dessert.

The much admired and esteemed former president of France, Jacques Chirac died last week.  His funeral was held last Monday.  We happened by St. Sulpice Church just after the ceremony.  You can see the black ribbons on top of the EU and French flags at the top of the stairs.

Fabrics are shaped in the form of models… I thought it was quite artistic and worth  noting.  We saw this in a small clothing shop on rue de Seine in the 7th

We love to walk on Rue Cler — a street closed to traffic — with lots of wonderful little shops and eateries.  This is one of La Duree’s shops — which are many scattered all across the country and even at the airports, now.  Note the beautiful ceiling — almost as good as their macaroons.

Does anyone know what this is?  The green prickly thing is the burr — the actual fruit of a chestnut tree.  Inside the burr you can see chestnuts — which are the seeds of the tree.  Who knew?  We were warned not to touch the burr… it is really sharp.

And can I close this blog without a photo of these fabulous tartes?  Just down from La Duree is another of our favorite shops.  Nothing more need be said except, ‘No — we didn’t buy one… and we haven’t even had a croissant yet.”

Sunday:  It seems that we are finally over the jetlag which hit hard again this time.  It has taken us 4 days or so to feel recovered.  We go to sleep late and get up late — sometimes around noon!  it was a lazy day and so we slept late and stayed in until it was time to head to a friend’s for dinner.

Unknown to me, all of Paris’ bus routes have been revised which explains why when I was checking out how to get to our friend’s home none of my route apps gave me the usual way — Bus #28.  More willing to trust my own knowledge than an app, I stuck to what I knew.  Wrong!  We walked to the bus stop for #28, which is quite close to us. Unfortunately, we just missed one and so had to wait about 15 minutes for the next bus.  As it approached I saw that the banner across the top read “Montparnasse” which is only 1/2 way to where we were going.  It dawned on me that was why the route apps were giving me different routes than the one I knew.  Well — here we were – so we took the #28 as far as it went.  Just as we got off it started to rain.  (Why hadn’t I checked the weather report before leaving?) We walked up to Avenue du Maine, a busy place with busses, cars, and people all rushing around caught in the rain – many without cover as well.   The rain was light at first, then began to get heavier.  We stood on a corner, my head barely shielded from the rain by my thin scarf while George stood closeby not to happy while I fumbled with my phone trying to figure out what to do. We tried to get an Uber — but the driver couldn’t find us and cancelled.    Luck – finally — despite it always being impossible to find a taxi in Paris even it if it isn’t raining (without calling a head for one) – a taxi pulled right up in front of us, someone got out and we got in.  We were so thankful to be out of the rain which by now was coming down in buckets. Less than 10 minutes later we were at our friend’s street — a private road which the taxi driver refused to go down.  Umbrella in hand, our friend came down to meet us.  By then the rain had just about stopped.  We were pretty wet — I kept thinking about the two raincoats and multiple umbrellas in our closet back in the apartment…. Lesson learned! 

Coming home, our friend called for a taxi.   The driver turned out to be worth the cost of the trip.  He was jovial and friendly.  He spoke a little English, but clearly had that problem all figured out.  He had an app on his iphone which translated his spoken French into written English!  So he’d say something fun like “A lucky man with 3 women”  in French,  (we were with two friends)” and up it popped in English on his phone’s screen.  We had a lot of laughs all the way back…. and that, after a wonderful evening of good food, wine, and conversation.  The rain was long forgotten.  (No photos — just picture two people in the rain… and not the Hollywood version — we weren’t singing!).

We arrived in Paris at 10:00am Tuesday morning exhausted since we hadn’t slept on the flight but an hour or so. Thus, not having to look for a cab but being met by our now familiar driver ( a young man originally from Yerevan), was great.  It was his day off but he came for us anyway.  Here he is with George in our little elevator. He told us to call him whenever we need anything. I think we will.   By now I’ve lost track of time because we’ve been sleeping a good part of each day. 

I forced myself to get up and out to shop for some staples at Monop — our little MonoPrix just two blocks from our apartment. I came back with a cart full of stuff, but forgot the most important of all- bread! So that was the first on our list today when by mid afternoon we dragged ourselves out to shop some more. Below you see George walking down along our street headed to the closest bakery.   Once inside, I saw to my dismay that they were sold out of just about all their bread.  I pointed to one of two loaves left but just as I did the woman helping me turned toward the back of the bakery and accepted a big basketful of freshly baked baguettes — hot out of the oven.  Lucky us!  In those few minutes the bakery went from empty of customers to having a line out the door.  For some it must be a routine — go for fresh bread at 3 pm.  (Monday-Friday: Closed Sat and Sun.) . Not to worry, there are three other bakeries equidistant from us that are open on Sat and Sun.  There is never a shortage of open boulangeries here.  (Why are the French thinner than we are? French portions are smaller than ours and they walk off the butter and cream calories they eat.  Last night friends with whom we had dinner walked home at 10:30 pm — 3 miles. )

Banette — our little bakery

Finally, back up in our apartment we each cut off a chunk of bread.  Delicious!  Note that this is a perfect baguette — with a very crisp crust (you’ll have to take my word for it), and with those pockets of air inside.  The bread is not solid dough — but airy and light.  It makes a huge difference in the taste. 

In the evening we had dinner on the I’sle St. Germain.  These are houseboats that line up all along the Seine.  I took the photo as we walked across the bridge to the island.   I’ve included a link to information about the island.  It is one of several in the Seine This one is just outside the city of Paris in the district, Issy-les-Moulineaux.    

https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%8Ele_Saint-Germain#Description

We didn’t have time to walk much around the very big park on the island, unfortunately,  We’ll leave that for another day.  I’d never seen a sign like this one.  Instructions to cyclists — bicycle as if you were walking — at a walking pace: roulez au pas.   I learned something new — the phrase, au pas!  

A most charming setting — the restaurant was at one time someone’s home.  Inside was beautiful as well with glass all around, large but cozy with many different areas for seating some of which you can see below.  Valet parking?  8 euros — not bad.  While having dinner you can have your car washed for a tidy additional sum. 

President Baco Sahakyan presented me with the Vachagan Baripasht medal- named for the Pope-King Vachagan the Pious. A great honor — given for our work during the war and thereafter. Following this was a round table discussion of our impressions and thoughts about what we were seeing after all these years. Including friends the health minister and the foreign minister were present. And then as a group we walked to a terrace overlooking the city before going to dinner. The good never stopped coming. At the Armenian table every fish is repeated for four to six people so you never have to ask for someone to pass the salad or whatever. Everything is st your fingertips. And the man closest to a woman is responsible for offering her food and keeping her drink glass full. Of course that is if the woman is a guest. If she isn’t she is probably in the kitchen. At this dinner we had a record number of women–5!

The Silk Road Hotel was perfect for us. Small with totally Armenian decor and a young cheerful staff who couldn’t do enough to help us. In the area wheee we had our buffet breakfast were two rug weaving looms that were worked each day. The owner of the hotel supports rug weaving and has an “adopt a loom ” project for 14 villages. — and growing. Profits from the hotel are channeled into this project. These women came each day and we got a chance to speak with them and learn about what they were doing.

Below is our breakfast buffet and an adjoining meeting room.

Some photos I just can’t resist posting twice. This is one of them: Stepanakert from the road going to Shushi. The city was under siege for a couple of years during the War of Independence, an easy target as it sits in a valley.

This is the cathedral of Shushi. When we first saw the church in 1992 it was in terrible condition. The Azeris has used it for storing guns and ammunition. We saw those left when the Armenians took the city. Since they knew Armenians wouldn’t bomb a church it was a safe place to store guns. But as the war progresses and the Armenians approaches the church was nearly destroyed. But now it is a remarkable testimony to the restorative abilities of the people who live here. The whole city has a different look to it. I know the town well but wouldn’t have recognized it given the renovation of these impressive buildings.

In Berdzor we stopped at a small business Tufenkian Foundation started to help bee keepers with the production of honey. Medina is holding up a sheet made from bees wax that is accumulated by the farmer in crude condition. It is colleges and at this shop a machine is used to press the raw material(seen in the bucket) into these sheets. Thousands are made and sold (at a low price) to the farmers. These are inserted into the hive and pulled out when filled with honey. hHere we are planting trees in memory of George’s siblings, Mike and Anne. Sorry I didn’t get a better photo. We could be anywhere.

Below is the imposing facade to the Republican Hospital for adults in Stepanakert. It is modern and has up to date medical equipment in every specialty including dialysis. Impressive! It opened about 5 years ago. You can‘t imagine what the old hospital looked like. It was a tear-down and that’s what they did to it

They have MRI and Ct scanners as well.

The photo above and the rest below are of the pediatric hospital. Renovation was completed two years ago with funds donated by a Russian-Jewish oligarch who had strong ties to Armenian friends. Amazing. He gave 1.2 million dollars for the hospital. They too have state-of -the art equipment in every subspecialty of pediatrics. The operating room and ICU are fantastic. No one knew I was coming. Thus what you see is the way the hospital is kept–sparkling clean. The paintings below were done by kids treated at the hospital. These and many more line the halls throughout.

So much has happened since we left Paris 5 days ago including the nightmare of seeing NotreDame in flames. As we have absorbed that reality the news that all was not lost has softened the blow. We were prepared to make our donation too but have read that 600million euros have already been donated by wealthy French families. Wonderful!!

We arrived in Armenia on Sunday and after a day of rest (so to speak) we make the trip to Artsakh arriving there by late afternoon. George and i have made the trip many times but this time we traveled over a new road which cut out one hour. The 6 hr journey was made even more pleasant because we were in a Mercedes-Benz van with good friends. The trip involves crossing 3 mountain chains which in bad weather can present formidable road conditions. We were lucky!

This gives you an idea of what the journey entails. Before reaching the first mountain chain we drove about 70 miles along one of the largest fresh water mountain lakes in the world: Lake Sevan. Our main stop along the way was to see one of Armenia’s most spectacular churches built into the side of one of these mountains– Dadevank.

Frescoes from the Middle Ages were preserved by soot and grim which accumulated through the centuries. more than one Thousand of these monasteries can be found throughout the countryside all over Armenia and Artsakh. They were built into remote difficult mountainous areas to make it difficult for enemies to destroy them. At last Stepanagert comes into view.

We have two and a half days packed with visits to hospitals, NGOs, seeing old friends and of course a reception at the Presidential offices. here we are with our good friends the family that runs the Arpen Center. The mother and father were with us from the beginning (1995). Now their daughters are in charge. The Arpen Center, named for my mom, provides food and clothing for pregnant women. George is checking on the supplies.

It was a rainy day today, but yesterday I found myself under a beautiful cherry tree in full bloom.   It was a sunny, cool day.  The street is not pretty except for these trees.  

Today was rainy and cold made worse by a strong wind.  We had a lunch date with a good friend up on Blvd. Montparnasse.  It used to be a area where artists and writers congregated.  We took bus #28 as far as it goes up Blvd. Montparnasse and walked the rest of the way.  Our restaurant, Le Bar à Huïtres, is on one of these busy corners.  Le Dome, is famous and probably past its hey-day.   Many of the restaurants here specialize in shellfish. I stood on one corner and snapped a couple of photos — it was so cold I couldn’t wait for traffic to pass for a better shot.  Hopefully, you get the idea.  This is a busy place.  All of these restaurants have outdoor stalls where you can also buy shellfish to take.

Sitting close to us,  these folks are enjoying one of the grand tiered platters of shellfish.  There are different types of shellfish — some we don’t have.  Most comes from Brittany. I don’t think it is clear, but there is dry ice which is making a white smoke coming out of the top.   Our lunch below was a little less interesting visually, but those mashed potatoes were to die for.   Absolutely the best ever.  

A tiered display was added to the outside stall which we saw upon leaving.  Enticing — one of these days we are going to order one of these.  However, since I don’t eat raw oysters, we have hesitated to do so. Below — have you ever seen an oyster this big?  These are gigantic!  

Our friend is an artist and her ‘atelier’ (studio) is on Blvd Montparnasse (that’s why we had lunch here) This is an interesting place.  I don’t think we have anything like it in the US.  The city of Paris sponsons the endeavor. The building has a sign  “ABA — Ateliers beaux-arts de la Ville de Paris.”  Translated: Studios for fine arts of the City of Paris.  Anyone who applies can rent a space here.  There are sections for painters, sculptors, and other artists.  One pays a small fee according to income.  Provided, also for a small fee,  are all kinds of art materials.  Interesting!  The building opens at 3 pm.  Thus, we were waiting with others for the doors to open.  

On the side of the building I was this plaque.  One sees these all of the city — tributes to fallen resistance fighters.  Here is one to a man by the name of Robert Marchand.  According to the tribute here, he was captured, tortured, but didn’t ‘talk’.  Before being executed he said, ‘I die happy knowing that I did my duty.” 1942

We are seeing poles (not trees) wrapped in these white cloths.  We’ve no idea why and haven’t had a chance to ask anyone.  Very strange!  We’ve never seen this before.  

All over our neighborhood (and I’m sure the city) are electric car charging stations.  Here is one charging.  We thought the position of the charger was interesting.  Despite the cigarette butt seen here, Paris is the cleanest we’ve seen in years.  We walked the 1 1/2 miles from the restaurant to our apartment.  I planned it that way — we took the bus up MONTparnasse (uphill) and walked down Montparnasse after lunch.  

The best part was that we took off and arrived on time.  Everyone seemed to know what they were doing — and again, staff was pleasant, accommodating, but no frills.

Only two hours of sleep made for two weary travelers upon arrival. In a cab (55 euros set price– it was 35 last time!)

I didn’t think there would be much to write about today but as it turned out it was a good day and so here is one last blog.

After a morning of doing sheets and towels we headed downstairs to meet friends for lunch at La Cigale Recamier a must for us when in Paris. We haven’t had a croissant yet, but we can’t go home without a soufflée. We have the same main course every time (mushroom soufflee) and usually the chocolate one for dessert. This time I had pistachio with chocolate sauce (almost an ice cream) which was wonderful. chef owner Gerard Idoux is a fun loving kind of guy. He came over the minute he spotted George and gave him a big welcome. We had some good laughs which our French friends were able to interpret for us. I’m definitely not there yet.

After that we stopped in next door at the EDF gallery. EDF is France’s electric/gas company. From time to time they have special exhibits and so there was one in progress called Light Matters. The exhibition room was totally dark, lit only by hundreds of tiny lights hanging from wires. The lights changed color. The place was packed with a lot of people wandering though the maze of hanging lights. We,too.

From there we walked two blocks over to the Bon Marche where I thought I might find a fun scarf for my self. Well I didn’t find anything I really liked but almost bought a fun muffler of faux fur. It had a snazzy purse inside which I thought was clever. However, at a 1000 euros I passed on it. We were taken by the fantastical installation throughout the interior which was also continued in the display windows. I tried to capture this white monster floating through the air as best I could. There is a short blurb about the artist at the end.

I couldn’t resist one last tart photo. This one is a lemon tart. I thought it was so cute– almost like Mrs Maillard with her little ducklings.