January 20, 2011 Paris

January 20, 2011

Paris

Time is all off — we didn’t wake until after ten a.m. George said he was up most of the night, while I slept soundly. We finally made it out by 1:00 p.m. and headed for George’s favorite department store – BHV (Bazaar Hotel de Ville – translation: department store at the City Hall).

There is so much to write about if one is to think about experiences and observations in detail. It would be nice to be able to say it all in a prose poem, or in haiku both forms use few words for profound thoughts. I remember the contests that used to be on radio when I was a kid. The announcer would say something like, “Send us a letter in 25 words or less as to why you love Ivory soap …..” Twenty-five words or less…. My mother never sent a letter in. She just laughed and said it was all phony anyway.

Getting back to our day’s experiences. We took the metro and then changed to a bus. In Paris, bus driver’s will stop and wait for a passenger. The driver of our bus had pulled away from the stop, but was still quite close to it. A woman was running for the bus, coming from the rear, she knocked on the back of the bus and the driver stopped seeing her in the rear view mirror. Nice – on such a cold day.

We love the busses of Paris. People who ride the busses are older and have more time, than those who ride the metro – who tend to be more in a rush and younger. We often start to chat with an elderly person while we wait at a bus stop or even on the bus which is nice. And, obviously from a bus, one can see the city and observe life all around. We have our favorite busses — #28, #70, #39, and # 96 – which we took to get to BHV, bordering on arroundissmont #4, the Marais which is the old Jewish quarter of Paris and a great place to spend hours walking around.

But, no time for the Marais today – we’re headed for BHV along with thousands of other shoppers, not unexpectedly given the sales underway. The store was jammed with shoppers — shoppers everywhere — shopping! Special cashiers were set-up everywhere, and in the clothing areas, cabana-like booths were set up in some places for trying on clothes.

George and I separated – I went to look at bed linens and George went to the basement for various art supplies. We met ½ hour later in housewares. He had been successful, but I was overwhelmed and dizzy: too many people in frenzy mode and too much stuff to look at and sort through. Clearly we needed to eat something. What a relief! Food!

Called ‘Le Self’ , overlooking beautiful roof tops, the cafeteria was a welcome oasis. We had leek and potato soup and a little dish of salad from the salad bar. The foods were fantastic and beautifully displayed, but in keeping with French portions, the dish one was to use was the size of a saucer. Explains a lot!

After another ½ hour of meandering, we left having bought nothing else. Every time we thought to buy something we would rationalize away our need for the item and that was that!

What a relief to be outside again though cold and brisk. In the grand square in from of the Paris City Hall (adjacent to BHV) and not far from the carousel, George spied a young woman eating cotton candy and before I knew it, I was taking his picture with her and her companion. They turned out to be students from Australia. One had just finished a 6 month exchange program in Glasgow and was visiting her friend who was almost finished her exchange program in Paris, studying economic and political science. We talked for a while about conditions in Australia. She said that they knew many people who had lost their homes in the great floods Australia was experiencing and that it would take years for the country to recover.

From there we walked across a bridge to Notre Dame. A concert on Feb. 1 — Faure’s Requiem and Stravinsky’s Symphony of Psalms –was advertised on a small billboard in front so we went in and bought two tickets for it.

Continuing our walk across to the Left Bank, we decided to try to find ‘barley’ to make tanabour (Armenian hot barley-yogurt soup). We’d already looked for it in several grocery stores unsuccessfully. There is a Greek store in this area which we’d been to before — surely he’d have it, but no luck! But, he did have ‘simit’ a dry, flaky not too sweet cookie which we love. (Now that I think of it, where did George put them? I could go for one right about now –12:30 am!)

We continued walking down Blvd St. Germain, past the Cluny Museum to Odeon and decided to take the bus – bus #70 — which would take us to an organic grocery store close to home. Once there, we got more organic Fromage Blanc (translated: white cheese). But it isn’t really cheese, but something close to Greek or strained yogurt made with acidophilus bacteria. Again, we looked for barley unsuccessfully We remembered the Russian store next door run by an Armenian. When we entered he greeted us in Armenian with a big smile surprised, I think, to see us again. We asked if he had barley (as I couldn’t remember the Armenian name). He didn’t understand what we wanted, but then I said to him in Armenian, “You know — the grain Armenians use to make sebas!”’’ “Oh — sebas “ and he brought out two types of barley from Russia. (Sebas is the name given to hot yogurt soup in Armenia.)

The French word for barley is ‘orge’. The Armenian word is ‘kari’. I think it explains the Armenian word for beer: ‘kari chour’ ( barley water)’

Home, I visited our elderly neighbor on the 2nd floor and then, after dinner we set up my electric piano. That’s another story for another time.

I hope I’m able to post photos as this is definitely a learning process.

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First day in Paris

After a day lost to jetlag, unpacking, and getting some basic stuff done, and after a good 11 hours sleep, we were raring to go today. That means — we got out of our apartment by 1:30 p.m. That’s good for us! it was a good clear day, though cold. Several things had to be done after a rather frustrating morning — I was unable to recharge my cellphone online, and in our mail, was a return of our ‘habitation’ tax payment made in Dec. Both issues had to be taken care of today. Fortunately, within walking distance, we made it to an Orange store. The salesclerk was very helpful and quickly recharged my phone. I explained that I tried online. He said with a heavy French accent, “Impossible! Impossible!” It seems Orange has instituted extremely difficult protocols for recharging online unless you have a Visa Bleue card. Well — we do have a Visa Bleue, but unfortunately it is still back home and I don’t mean in the apartment here in Paris. Next, we headed for St. Sulpice — the church which houses the oldest organ in Europe. We’ve been to a concert or two here. The famous French organist, Marcel Dupre was the organist here for many years.

For those of you who may not have had the pleasure of being here, the church sits on a large square with a beautiful waterfountain in the center. For years, the facade of the church has been under reconstruction and cleaning. And now, for the first time in years, the scaffolding down, one can see the church as it is meant to be seen. Even if you have been here though, you might not know the building to the right of the main entrance of the church. It is equally imposing, but since our interest has always been the church it would be easy to miss; it is the financial administrative building for the 6th and 7th arrondissments (districts) of Paris. My heart sank when I saw the size of this building. I thought we will never be able to navigate through it and find where to pay the tax bill. I’d made copies of the letter waiting for us upon our arrival, explaining why our payment was returned. I hoped with that letter and my feable French, I’d be able to communicate what we needed to do.

Up the stairs, into the main lobby — we read the list of departments both for the 6th and the 7th arrondissements. Then, we noticed a women who seemed to be giving information from behind a large marble counter. Our turn…. she smiled broadly…. I posed my question, “Je veux payer notre tax de habitation…” “Yes” she said in French, continuing to smile and being very pleasant. “Do you see that door behind that man over there? Well go through that door and that’s where you pay the tax.” We said our ‘Merci, madame”, grateful for the help, but not believing for a minute that this would be easy.

We entered throught the door to see two clerks behind their desks, with no one else in the room — no other taxpayers or folks with problems were there. We approached the desk, but they both looked up and said in French, “You must take a number — take a number.” OK — there was no line, but we backed up to the small machine they pointed to, punched it, and out came # 40. We walked up to the desk, and gave them the number. I realize now that it must also be a way for their bosses to know how many people they see in a day.

The man behind the desk said he didn’t really speak any English when I asked and neither did his co-worker. in French I said that it didn’t matter,”Je parle francais un peu”, hoping was true, It was — I do speak a little French and for the third time in two days (the first time was with the chimney sweeper) I got us through.

I explained the problem, showed the clerk my papers, wrote a check, and paid the tax. He called up our account on the computer and I was even able to get our mailing address changed! What a relief — all done! Now we were free to roam the streets and shop.

First, we headed for the Village Voice bookstore which was close by. The proprietor. an Englishman was there and we chatted about some new books out and about a professor who has been coming in for books about Armenians. Interesting! He didn’t know any more about him than that. We made a few purchases and left after a bit though we could have stayed there browsing the shelves for hours.

January is sale month in France. Everything goes on sale up 20 -30-40 and even 50% off. Many stores have big signs saying, “Second marked down..” Not lost on Parisiens who I’ve heard wait for these sales all year, were now out en masse. The upscale department store Bon Marche looked like a bargain basement! Rows and rows of bins and racks filled with expensive garments and housewares were being gleaned by the shoppers. George and I looked around a bit, but I started to get dizzy from it all and after a quick look covering the three floors in about 15 minutes, we left.

We did some food shopping at the Grand Epicerie (Bon Marche grocery store), and then settled down in their outdoor express food area on Rue de Sevre. We order spinach soup, the special of the day, a lemon merangue tarte and an apple pastry, sat in the heated booth with vines growing on the outside, and ate while people watching. How pleasant it was.

One more stop on the way back to our apartent was made to buy herring at a specialty store. We had a little time to rest before heading to the American Library to hear author Susan Tiberghien read from and talk about her new book, One Year to a Writing Life. George and I both enjoyed it. I signed up for her workshop on Saturday afternoon at Shakespeare & Co.
We got to chatting with the woman sitting next to us during the talk — she’ll be at the workshop, too.

We stopped for a quick dinner at an Indian restaurant directly on our way home. It was OK, but nothing I’d write home about (is that what I’m doing?)

We’re happy to have left the mountains of snow behind. it was a clear, sunny day today, though quite cold — but not anything like we’ve had back home.  We’ll see how long it lasts.

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